Our Islands and Our Salmon

Carved by Coupeville native Roger Purdue, the Salmon Wheel is located at the head of the Coupeville Wharf. © 2008 Russell Sparkman

From the deck of the 65 foot steel cruiser Indigo we viewed the dramatic wonder that is the Whidbey Island coastline. Cruising south from the Clinton dock past Possession Point and then north along Whidbey's west side to Bush Point, we oohed and aahed at the beautiful beaches, vertical bluffs, and coastal forests of fir, cedar, hemlock, alder, and more. As part of an S.E.A. (Service. Education. Adventure) cruise sponsored by the Whidbey Watershed Stewards, we learned about salmon and its interdependence with this stunningly beautiful land.

When the Vashon Glacier retreated some 15,000 years ago and left behind what would be come the Puget Sound, salmon fanned out and recolonized millions of miles of rivers draining into the North Pacific. To the barren land, the salmon brought nutrients from the sea as their bodies decomposed following their death after spawning. Thus enriching the soil, the salmon helped Western Hemlock and Red Cedar and Douglas Fir take root, creating the forests and wetlands that would eventually support many species. Salmon became food for land animals and large marine mammals. They were a staple of First People diet and became a critical source of protein for European and American settlers in the area. For decades, commercial fishing and packing of salmon provided hundreds of jobs in the area. Today, just as in years past, at meal time salmon satisfies. We can enjoy it grilled on an alder plank, sautéed in a white wine sauce, or smoked both for flavor and to preserve it. A common theme in northwest art and a sport for enthusiastic fishermen, salmon is a defining icon of the area.

This icon stars on the wharf in historic Coupeville. A large, carved wood salmon wheel depicts five different species of salmon, each curving toward the center. Coupeville artist Roger Purdue designed this wheel first as a logo for the annual Penn Cove Water Festival, a mid-May event celebrating traditional life and culture in Puget Sound. Its central event, canoe racing, comes from the centuries old competition among youth of different tribes gathered for communal events like fishing the annual salmon run. Now, as then, salmon remain a favorite food for many marine mammals, eagles, and dedicated sport fishermen.

Today, however, salmon has a new relevance. Increasingly endangered, it highlights a fragile ecosystem stumbling from careless human behavior. Wild salmon is known as an indicator species--how well it's doing tells us about the health of its larger environment. And salmon is not doing all that well. While there are many reasons for the serious decline in salmon populations here, the most significant factor is loss of habitat. Spawning and hatching water is lethally warmer with less shade from native vegetation and trees. Along their migration routes, salmon have less protection from predators because there are fewer fallen trees and land spits from receding bluffs. There's less fish for them to eat and fewer salmon make it to adulthood to spawn. Without change, the outlook is bleak.

But change is upon us. With a strong environmental, outdoorsy culture, a growing number of people in Puget Sound come together to clean the water, restore habitat, and help many endangered species recover. Whidbey and Camano Islands have featured roles in these efforts, particularly those focused on salmon. Outdoor paradises both, these islands are geographically located where three important salmon rivers (Skagit, Snohomish, Stillaguamish) flow into the Puget Sound. Salmon leave those rivers and migrate toward the ocean making the Whidbey and Camano coastlines critical habitat to help rebuild salmon populations.

The Whidbey Watershed Stewards, Beachwatchers, Shore Stewards, and the Orca Network are among the many active, community groups on these islands who offer hands-on education about the land, the coastline, and the water. They bring a grass roots fervor to this important conservation work. Connecting with some of them can make your trip here more memorable. What might you find?

On the beaches on the southern and western sides of Whidbey, you may well see scientists from the Wild Fish Conservancy studying where juvenile salmon travel after they leave their spawning creeks and rivers. North and east of Oak Harbor, efforts are underway to help restore natural coastline configurations along known salmon migration routes. The Whidbey Camano Land Trust works with local groups and citizens to plant and restore native vegetation along salmon bearing creeks. On Camano Island at Kristoferson Creek you can enjoy peaceful beauty and learn about salmon and other wildlife thanks to a viewing platform and educational panels installed by Friends of Camano Island Parks (F.O.C.I.P). In a growing number of places on the islands, people are learning to enjoy the forests, the creeks, the beaches, and the bluffs while they make sure that wildlife has a home, too. It's a shared strategy to keep these islands beautiful, healthy, and inviting.

Your trip to Whidbey and Camano will certainly include beauty and delicious food and a quieter pace. It can be even more. Gather a group and take a cruise around the islands with S.E.A. Stop in at Kristoferson Creek or visit the Island County Historical museum. Visit the wharf in Coupeville and see the beauty of the salmon wheel. Become a creative explorer and find other reasons why salmon matters so greatly to Whidbey, Camano, and the larger Puget Sound ecosystem.

Click here for an online downloadable map of boat launches and marinas:

Island County Boat Launches & Marinas - 7.1MB Large map of Whidbey & Camano Islands boat launches, marinas & trails.

• Langley's municipal marina reservations: Email: Harbormaster@portofsouthwhidbey.com or call 360-221-1120 or 425-387-4950 with date of arrival, length of stay, Boat name, LOA, Beam and Draft. Include contact your information. or Contact the Harbormaster at 360 221-1120 always has plenty of moorage for visitors.
• In Coupeville, you can access the town from the dock all day, and anchoring in Penn Cove overnight will offer a truly serene sleep. For more information regarding moorage at Coupeville wharf call (360) 678-5020.
• Oak Harbor's marina has visitor moorage, gas and charters. At Cornet Bay, located on the north end of Whidbey Island, you'll enjoy breathtaking views and gas and goods are available. http://www.whidbey.com/ohmarina/ or call (360) 679-BOAT or (360) 679-2628.
• Camano Island State Park has a floating dock for landing.Camano Island State Park
  2269 S. Lowell Point Rd.
  Camano Island, WA 98282 - (360) 387-3031
  Latitude 48D 7' 39.37" N (48.1276)
  Longitude 122D 29' 57.12" W (-122.4992)
  Body of Water Puget Sound
  Hours Summer: 6:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.
  Winter: 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.
  The park is open year-round for camping and day-use.
  
• Camano Island Yacht Club
  Clubhouse Telephone: (360) 387-3737
  Email: camanoislandyachtclub.com
  Mailing Address: P.O. Box 1041, Stanwood, WA 98282
  Club Location: 129 North Sunset Drive, Camano Island, WA 98282

• Adventures in Boating Washington: This handbook is published by Boat Ed, the provider of Washington's boating safety course. Although this handbook is a convenient reference tool, students wanting to receive official Washington boating safety certification would benefit from studying Boat Ed's comprehensive boat safety course. All boating safety course material has been developed in conjunction with Washington Parks & Recreation, and is the same material used in their classroom courses. Take the Washington boating safety course.

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Whidbey and Camano Islands are only 25 miles north of Seattle, and 2 hours south of Vancouver. See Directions and Maps to learn more about how to get here.