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Highlights: Overlooking Penn Cove in Coupeville, the island’s main settlement, brothers Doug, Jerry and Tom Kroon run Knead & Feed, a wood-paneled bakery-café that serves shrimp bisque and fresh slices of pie—the fillings change daily (360/678-5431).

A few doors down, at Mosquito Fleet Chili, husband-and-wife owners Chris and Rita Tomayko make spicy chili using local beef (360/678-2900).

The island’s agricultural traditions are protected within the borders of the 17,400-acre Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve, where local farmers continue to till the rich soil (360/678-6084). The park’s eastern shore has open views of the Olympic Mountains to the south.

For dinner, splurge on Penn Cove mussels steamed in wine at The Oystercatcher (360/678-0683, entrées from $20).

Overnight option: Original log walls, beamed ceilings and stone fireplaces adorn the 102-year-old Captain Whidbey Inn (360/678-4097, from $94). Choose from among the 12 rooms in the main house (all with shared bath) or one of 4 one-bedroom cabins scattered around the grounds—all with views of the water.

Driving tip: It’s a 30-minute ferry ride from the dockside town of Mukilteo to the island. Traffic is heavy on Fridays, so leave in the morning or, better yet, linger over dinner in Seattle. The ferries run until 1 a.m.

En route: Next to the dock on the mainland, Ivar’s Mukilteo Landing draws locals with its extensive wine list and views of Possession Sound (425/742-6180, ivars.net).—Kimberly Brown Seely